The telecom transmission tower at 10th and West Lynn Streets is visible throughout Clarksville. Photo by James Rambin.

Clarksville, founded in 1871 by freedman Charles Clark as a settlement for former African-American slaves in the aftermath of the Civil War, couldn’t hold onto every part of its history.

Despite the neighborhood’s roots, its demographics shifted heavily in the early 1900s as land values increased alongside city-enforced segregation. The neighborhood now occupies Austin’s second most expensive zip code, with home prices currently averaging $462 per square foot.

The view south down West Lynn Street, the major thoroughfare of the Clarksville area. Photo by James Rambin.

If North Loop serves as a living history museum for Austin’s dwindling class of working weird, Clarksville represents the influence of its gentry, peppering the city’s usual assortment of craftsman-style homes with historic Victorian specimens and picture-perfect bungalows.

Photo courtesy of Downtown Austin Blog.

There’s also a castle, if that’s your thing — originally built as a military academy, sure, but still doing plenty of favors for the district’s general air of nobility. A big turret has a way of doing that.

Even as the downtown core only minutes away hopped a runaway train to vertical density, Clarksville more or less maintains itself as the an independent enclave of single-family homes, capable of sustaining its lucky few residents without forcing them to venture beyond its borders any more than absolutely necessary.

This makes Clarksville prime territory for an Austin staycation, even if you’re only pretending to live there for 36 hours.

The Clarksville Community Garden at 1705 Waterston Avenue. Photo by James Rambin.

Before we begin, let’s set some terms. Despite the popular understanding of even the most native Austinites, most don’t realize the area commonly known as Clarksville is a lot larger than the actual Clarksville Historic District. Here’s a map from the Clarksville Community Development Corporation versus what Google and other neighborhood maps commonly designate as Clarksville:

On the left is the actual Clarksville Historic District, versus the larger neighborhood. Photos courtesy of CCDC / Google Maps.

Folks get a little picky about this distinction, so let’s make it clear that we’re talking about spending time in the larger region commonly known as Clarksville. There’s not nearly as much to do if you limit yourself to the historic district, unless you’re here just to look at homes and wish you owned one here.

Even the corner stores have character. Photo by James Rambin.

Friday

5:00 p.m. – Happy Hour Heist

The view at Jeffrey’s in Clarksville. Photo courtesy of Jeffreys / Facebook.

Jeffrey’s, a fine dining institution in a neighborhood hosting a few more than its fair share, first came on the scene in 1975, but its acquisition and renewal six years ago by local hospitality group McGuire Moorman, along with the opening of next-door spinoff Josephine House, put the restaurant back on the map after years of flagging business and popularity.

Although there’s nothing remotely the matter with the 42-ounce porterhouses ($165) dropping jaws in the dining room, for my money, the best way to dip your toe into this Clarksville icon is via its daily happy hour. From 4:30 to 6:30 p.m, Tuesday to Sunday (and all night Monday!), you’ll find a half-priced bar menu and $2 discounts on every cocktail, beer, and wine in the house.

The bar at Jeffrey’s. Photo courtesy of Jeffrey’s / Facebook.

That bar menu, by the way, crushes plenty of full-sized menus at other upscale joints in the city, with a dry-aged wagyu burger and fries clocking in at a mere $12 during happy hour. It’s not dive cheap, but it still feels like you’re getting away with something.

7 p.m. – But Wait, There’s More!

You’ll find Cipollina tucked away at the far end of the Fresh Plus building. Photo by James Rambin.

If you stick to the lighter side of happy hour, you might still have Clarksville’s local restaurant scene on the brain — and if so, all you’ve got to do is walk across the street from Jeffrey’s. Cipollina first opened in 1999 with a menu all over the map, feeling Italian at heart but also integrating French and Mediterranean influences into a self-proclaimed unstuffy, neighborhood bistro experience.

Handmade noodles have been a staple and stamp of attention to taste & quality since Cipollina's beginning.

A post shared by Cipollina Bistro (@cipollinabistro) on Jan 5, 2017 at 3:01pm PST

But hitting three targets is tough, so by 2014, the restaurant recalculated to focus exclusively on Italian cuisine, and I don’t think anyone’s looked back since. Wood-fired pizzas ($10 – $18) topped with a spectrum of wonders from sweet onion compote to prosciutto are a local favorite, and the dinner menu’s assortment of dishes backed by the restaurant’s fresh homemade pasta ($15 – $26) will change your life if you’ve never ventured out of the box.

The Fresh Plus bulletin board gets a pretty good workout. Is that a payphone? Photo by James Rambin.

Sharing the building with Cipollina is Fresh Plus Grocery, one of the engines driving Clarksville’s self-sufficiency. It’s a full-sized grocery store that’s operated in the neighborhood since the 1920s, and once you’ve visited, you’ll wonder why every Austin neighborhood isn’t as lucky.

Fresh Plus, Clarksville’s grocery store of record. Photo courtesy of Fresh Plus Austin.

It’s a great spot for grabbing a sixer after dinner, or just grabbing dinner, with a thoughtful selection of items taking you way beyond a normal neighborhood bodega. Wouldn’t it be nice if they built one of these downtown?

9 p.m. – Neighborhood Character

Clarksville, probably owing to its status, lacks bars — yes, there are great bars at many of its restaurants, but you know what I’m talking about. If you’re looking for a dedicated late-night solution, you might be forced to venture one block south of West Sixth Street, Clarksville’s southern boundary, to dives like the Mean-Eyed Cat and Donn’s Depot. But we’re following rules here, and folks in Clarksville enjoy an early bedtime.

An exterior view of a furnished guest house available for rental in Clarksville. Photo by Brian Stansberry.

That reminds me, another thing you won’t find in the neighborhood: hotels. But you’re not going to mind if you book something like this furnished guest house, one of the best hidden gem rentals I’ve found in the city. There’s also plenty to choose from on Airbnb, as long as you book a few weeks in advance.

Saturday

10 a.m. – Counterpoint

Photo courtesy of Counter Cafe.

Although Counter Cafe opens at 7 a.m. every day, you might not feel inclined to roll up then — it’s a vacation, after all. Of course, considering the seating situation in this microscopic ode to the classic American diner, you’d be wise to show up as early as possible to ensure a shorter wait for one of what appears to be about 10 tables.

And it’s really worth it, with an easy menu of diner favorites jazzed up with words like “organic” and “local.” A crab cake Benedict with homemade hollandaise ($15) is both excellent and about as high-end as things get around here, but you’ll also never go wrong with eggs any style, served with a fresh biscuit, bacon, or sausage ($9).

11 a.m. – The Boutique Shuffle

The shopping scene in Clarksville will keep you pleasantly occupied, if you like that sort of thing. Though its location has changed a few times since it opened in 1970, Clarksville’s Whole Earth Provision Co., just a few blocks down North Lamar Boulevard from Counter Cafe, might be the best link to old Austin on this side of the neighborhood. Its selection of clothing, camping equipment, footwear, jewelry, and more is planet-conscious and often local or fair trade. There’s plenty of weirdness to be found here in a city with a dwindling supply, and you might find yourself seriously considering picking up a hammock after a test drive. Is there a time limit?

Picking through the finds at Fortney’s might take more than an afternoon. Photo courtesy of Fortney’s Eclectic Home Furnishings.

Once you’ve had your fill of the sandals set, check out a slightly different kind of weird at Fortney’s on West Sixth Street, a furniture store out of your strangest dreams ever. Billed as supplying “eclectic home furnishings,” Fortney’s is a treasure trove of statues, wall art, antique flags, and every other off-kilter furnishing and decor solution you’d expect from a store proudly billing itself as “The Most Austin Store in Austin.” Last time I checked their site, they were selling a phone booth.

1 p.m. – Under the C

Oysters, cosmos & white wine on the deck! #clarksaustin

A post shared by Clark's Austin (@clarksaustin) on Jul 14, 2017 at 10:08am PDT

The aptly-named Clark’s Oyster Bar is owned by the same folks behind Jeffrey’s — their hold on the Clarksville market is pretty well-cinched at this point. If you’re a fan of the briny deep (or a good hamburger), it’s one of the nicer lunch options in the area.

I’m not saying you’re required to dive into the extensive caviar list (with options ranging from $30 – $240) or the cold bar selections of raw oysters (most are $3.50 each), but the red snapper ceviche ($19) sounds better and better as the outside temperature rises past insanity. Grilled shrimp toast ($16) is a highlight, a sort of austere cousin to the excellent lobster roll ($34).

2 p.m. – Artsville

The gallery offers custom framing services, perfect for that vintage Robocop poster you’ve been keeping under your bed since 1987. Photo courtesy of Artworks Gallery / Facebook.

Get a little culture running through your veins at Artworks, a showroom just down West Sixth Street from Clark’s, with works of paint and sculpture by local artists on display and for sale. You might not feel like carting around a painting all afternoon, but give it a look anyway and see if something grabs you. What’s a vacation without art?

4 p.m. – Record Time

Find your ears something new. Photo courtesy of Waterloo Records.

If you’re from here, Waterloo Records is old news, but the excitement of digging through vinyls and band shirts hasn’t changed much since the store opened in 1982, though it’s moved to a larger space since then. The notion of a physical store for music is less and less of a thing, so respect the classics and pay the place a visit. You’ll never find some of this stuff on iTunes.

6 p.m. – Are You Experienced?

Picture your next dinner party at Cafe Josie. No one goes home hungry with The Experience. (Read: All-you-can-eat) https://t.co/1uyMLhomXF pic.twitter.com/sEXRazZco0

— Cafe Josie (@CafeJosie) July 27, 2017

Cafe Josie, a neighborhood farm-to-table spot fashioned from a former Clarksville carriage house in 1997, offers one of the better dinner…experiences in the city.

“The Experience,” the cafe’s signature all-you-can-eat chef’s tasting ($45 per person), allows diners to choose from 16 tasting menu items — as many as you want, as many times as you want. It’s a revolutionary deal for large groups, but two people will enjoy the menu’s range from grilled okra and peach salad all the way to fried oysters and smoked brisket. It’s really something, man.

9 p.m. – Some Things Never Change

Again, if you’re from Austin, Amy’s Ice Creams practically blends into the city’s background. But much like Waterloo Records, that raises a question — how long has it been since you actually went there? It’s probably been too long, and Amy’s still does it right more than 30 years after the grand opening.

Prices and flavors change with the wind, but you’ll still get a homemade waffle cone here for roughly $5.00, and the scooping flair comes free. Go for their boozy flavors, if they’re available — Shiner beer and whiskey caramel are past favorites.

Sunday

10 a.m. – Soda Jerks

Your last meal in Clarksville could also be its most historical, at Nau’s Enfield Drug, a full-service pharmacy, old-school soda fountain, and lunch counter dating back to 1951. Every pharmacy used to operate something like this, with burgers and malts cozied up next to headache powder and cough drops, but it’s harder and harder to find in the modern era of drive-thru drugstores and national chains.

The breakfast at Nau’s is a dirt-cheap throwback to that bygone era, with no-nonsense breakfast plates and huevos rancheros clocking in at around $7.00, and big, fresh breakfast tacos starting at $2.50 apiece. You’ll only need two, since there’s a good chance you won’t leave the place without trying a chocolate ice cream soda ($4.95). It’s just the right thing to do.

11 a.m. – Paint the Town

The HOPE Outdoor Gallery, though it’s probably better-known as just the Clarksville Graffiti Park. Photo by James Rambin.

You’ve probably passed it a few times by now if you’re bumming around the neighborhood, but the HOPE Outdoor Gallery deserves a closer look. This graffiti gallery — or “community paint park” — was reclaimed from a hillside condo development abandoned in the early stages of construction, now hosting constantly-changing street art and the city’s most consistent Instagram popularity.

But Austin’s still Austin, so the site won’t stay this way for long, with relocation plans already on the horizon. Even in a historic neighborhood like Clarksville, nothing lasts forever.

Clarksville Homes For Sale

602 Highland AVE #1 , Austin

Home size: 1,674 sq ft
Year built: 1920

3 beds
2 baths
$799,900

1621 W 12th ST #B , Austin

Home size: 2,158 sq ft
Lot size: 3,920 sqft
Year built: 2006

3 beds
3 baths
$925,000

906 Maufrais ST , Austin

Home size: 1,436 sq ft
Lot size: 8,842 sqft
Year built: 1927

3 beds
3 baths
$995,000

701 Oakland AVE #A , Austin

Home size: 1,328 sq ft
Year built: 1935

2 beds
2 baths
$725,000

1212 Castle Hill ST #7 , Austin

Home size: 380 sq ft
Lot size: 21,039 sqft
Year built: 1950

0 beds
1 bath
$229,000

814 Theresa AVE , Austin

Home size: 1,478 sq ft
Lot size: 6,098 sqft
Year built: 1928

3 beds
2 baths
$869,000

1204 Marshall LN #4 , Austin

Home size: 753 sq ft
Lot size: 1,263 sqft
Year built: 1949

1 bed
1 bath
$345,000

614 Winflo DR , Austin

Home size: 2,020 sq ft
Lot size: 6,446 sqft
Year built: 1950

3 beds
3 baths
$1,169,000

1603 Enfield #311 , Austin

Home size: 773 sq ft
Year built: 2012

1 bed
1 bath
$350,500

1111 W 12th ST #115 , Austin

Home size: 2,242 sq ft
Lot size: 3,571 sqft
Year built: 1981

3 beds
3 baths
$1,225,000

1004 Maufrais ST , Austin

Home size: 3,481 sq ft
Lot size: 9,975 sqft
Year built: 1950

4 beds
5 baths
$1,992,000

1315 W 9th ST , Austin

Home size: 1,760 sq ft
Lot size: 8,712 sqft
Year built: 1950

4 beds
2 baths
$1,500,000

1115 W 7th ST #203 , Austin

Home size: 1,710 sq ft
Lot size: 1,916 sqft
Year built: 1999

3 beds
2 baths
$795,000

1813 W 8th ST , Austin

Home size: 3,320 sq ft
Lot size: 5,837 sqft
Year built: 2005

4 beds
4 baths
$1,175,000

1407 Newfield LN , Austin

Home size: 1,466 sq ft
Lot size: 7,492 sqft
Year built: 1942

3 beds
2 baths
$690,000

1010 W 10th ST #204 , Austin

Home size: 2,077 sq ft
Lot size: 17,511 sqft
Year built: 2018

3 beds
3 baths
$1,250,000

1210 Windsor RD #119 , Austin

Home size: 892 sq ft
Lot size: 1,437 sqft
Year built: 1960

2 beds
1 bath
$349,000

1010 W 10th ST #102 , Austin

Home size: 1,874 sq ft
Lot size: 17,511 sqft
Year built: 2017

3 beds
3 baths
$895,000

1111 W 12th ST #107 , Austin

Home size: 1,592 sq ft
Lot size: 3,092 sqft
Year built: 1981

2 beds
3 baths
$799,950

812 Theresa AVE #1 , Austin

Home size: 2,015 sq ft
Lot size: 4,356 sqft
Year built: 2018

3 beds
4 baths
$1,000,000

602 Highland AVE #1 , Austin

Home size: 1,674 sq ft Year built: 1920

3 beds 2 baths $799,900
1621 W 12th ST #B , Austin

Home size: 2,158 sq ft Lot size: 3,920 sqft Year built: 2006

3 beds 3 baths $925,000
906 Maufrais ST , Austin

Home size: 1,436 sq ft Lot size: 8,842 sqft Year built: 1927

3 beds 3 baths $995,000
701 Oakland AVE #A , Austin

Home size: 1,328 sq ft Year built: 1935

2 beds 2 baths $725,000
1212 Castle Hill ST #7 , Austin

Home size: 380 sq ft Lot size: 21,039 sqft Year built: 1950

0 beds 1 bath $229,000
814 Theresa AVE , Austin

Home size: 1,478 sq ft Lot size: 6,098 sqft Year built: 1928

3 beds 2 baths $869,000
1204 Marshall LN #4 , Austin

Home size: 753 sq ft Lot size: 1,263 sqft Year built: 1949

1 bed 1 bath $345,000
614 Winflo DR , Austin

Home size: 2,020 sq ft Lot size: 6,446 sqft Year built: 1950

3 beds 3 baths $1,169,000
1603 Enfield #311 , Austin

Home size: 773 sq ft Year built: 2012

1 bed 1 bath $350,500
1111 W 12th ST #115 , Austin

Home size: 2,242 sq ft Lot size: 3,571 sqft Year built: 1981

3 beds 3 baths $1,225,000
1004 Maufrais ST , Austin

Home size: 3,481 sq ft Lot size: 9,975 sqft Year built: 1950

4 beds 5 baths $1,992,000
1315 W 9th ST , Austin

Home size: 1,760 sq ft Lot size: 8,712 sqft Year built: 1950

4 beds 2 baths $1,500,000
1115 W 7th ST #203 , Austin

Home size: 1,710 sq ft Lot size: 1,916 sqft Year built: 1999

3 beds 2 baths $795,000
1813 W 8th ST , Austin

Home size: 3,320 sq ft Lot size: 5,837 sqft Year built: 2005

4 beds 4 baths $1,175,000
1407 Newfield LN , Austin

Home size: 1,466 sq ft Lot size: 7,492 sqft Year built: 1942

3 beds 2 baths $690,000
1010 W 10th ST #204 , Austin

Home size: 2,077 sq ft Lot size: 17,511 sqft Year built: 2018

3 beds 3 baths $1,250,000
1210 Windsor RD #119 , Austin

Home size: 892 sq ft Lot size: 1,437 sqft Year built: 1960

2 beds 1 bath $349,000
1010 W 10th ST #102 , Austin

Home size: 1,874 sq ft Lot size: 17,511 sqft Year built: 2017

3 beds 3 baths $895,000
1111 W 12th ST #107 , Austin

Home size: 1,592 sq ft Lot size: 3,092 sqft Year built: 1981

2 beds 3 baths $799,950
812 Theresa AVE #1 , Austin

Home size: 2,015 sq ft Lot size: 4,356 sqft Year built: 2018

3 beds 4 baths $1,000,000